KAZBEGI
ყაზბეგი
Elevation: 1740m
Population: 1500
The township of Stepantsminda (formerly Kazbegi) is located in the Darial Gorge amongst the Caucasus Mountains, 157 kilometers north of Tbilisi, and 9km south of the Russian border. The Darial Gorge was carved by the river Terek. Steep granite walls along the gorge can be as much as 1800 metres high in some places. The name Darial originates from Dar-i Alān meaning “Gate of the Alans” in Persian. The Alans held the lands north of the pass in the first centuries AD. The Darial Pass is one of only two crossings of the Caucasus Mountains, the other being the Derbent Pass. As a result, the Darial Gorge has been fortified since at least 150 BC. It was fortified in ancient times by the Romans and Persians; the fortification variously known as the Iberian Gates and the Caucasian Gates.
The most notable mountain in the region is Mount Kazbegi (Kazbek in Russian), standing at 5033 metres. Mount Kazbegi lies immediately to the west of Stepantsminda. The second most prominent peak in the region is Mount Shani, which rises to 4451 meters, 9 kilometers east of Stepantsminda.
While previously known as Kazbegi, today the village itself is called Stepantsminda, while the municipality to which it belongs is called Kazbegi. The municipality of Kazbegi includes: Stepantsminda, Gorisziche, Gudauri, Kobi, Sioni and Sno. The name Kazbegi originates from an influencial family from the region. The name Stepantsminda originates from a Georgian Orthodox monk named Saint Stephan who constructed a hermitage in the area.
The Chopikashvili were an influential clan from the highland region. They rose in prominence under the rule of the Georgian king Heraclius II in the late 1700s. During Heraclius II’s reign the Chopikashvili clan leader, Kazi-Beg, was made an official in the village of Stepantsminda and placed in charge of collecting tolls on travellers through the road to the North Caucasus.
Kazi-Beg’s son Gabriel later became an official, adopting the surname of Kazbegi (after his father). Gabriel pledged his loyalty to the Russians upon the annexation of Georgia in 1801.
In 1804, deposed Georgian princes rallied forces and revolted against Russian rule. Gabriel Kazbegi remained loyal to Russia and helped to suppress the revolt. In return, he was promoted to officer in the Russian Army.
As the village of Stepantsminda was under his control, it was frequently referred to Kazbegi by locals, and Kazbek by the Russians.
In 1859, Gabriel’s son Mikheil fought in the Caucasian War and was made a major general in the Russian army.
Mikheil’s son was the famed Georgian writer Alexander Kazbegi (1848–1893). Alexander’s most famous work was his 1883 novel The Patricide. The Patricide is about a heroic Caucasian bandit named Koba, who, much like Robin Hood, is a defender of the poor. Koba has nothing but contempt for authority, a proclivity towards violence, and a firm belief in vengeance. Kazbegi’s work was a major inspiration to a young Joseph Stalin, who used Koba as a revolutionary pseudonym.
In 1925, while under Soviet rule, the name of the village of Stepantsminda was officially changed to Kazbegi.
In 2006, the name of the village of Kazbegi was officially reverted to Stepantsminda.
What To See And Do in Kazbegi
Bethlemi Hut
Bethlemi Hut, formally known as the Meteo Station, is a mountain hut located at the height of 3653 metres, on the slopes of Mount Kazbegi. In 1933, a wooden shelter for climbers was constructed on the site. In 1941, a stone building replaced the wooden one, which also served as a meteorological station. In 1998, the shelter was officially renamed Bethlemi Hut. Annually Bethlemi Hut hosts thousands of climbers on their way to Mount Kazbegi.
During the summer (June to September) prior reservation is recommended as the hut can be full.
Reservations can be made by phone, email, or from Geoland in Tbilisi, and must be paid in advance.
Bethlemi Hut Bed-Bunk: 40 lari per person
Bethlemi Hut Campsite: 10 lari per tent
(Cash payment accepted at the hut)
The kitchen is free to use and consists of a few tables and a fireplace.
Bring your own food and a stove to cook it, as there is NO food available at the hut.
There is NO toilet at the hut, resultingly human waste can be found behind every rock in vicinity of the hut.
For more information check: https://www.facebook.com/BethlemiHut/
Gergeti Trinity Church
Gergeti Trinity Church is located on a hill overlooking Stepantsminda, at an elevation of 2170 meters and is perhaps the most visited sight in all of Kazbegi. The church was built in the 14th century. It has been recorded that in times of national danger, precious relics from Mtskheta were brought here for safekeeping. This is still an active church with a number of monks living and serving here, with multiple public services every day. The church is a popular hike for visitors and takes 1h30m-2h to hike to from Stepantsminda. In 2018, a sealed public road now also leads to the church.
Gveleti Waterfall
Gvelti Waterfall is located 7 kilometres north of Stepantsminda, on the road towards the Russian border. From the roadside, its a short leisurely hike up a narrow footpath which leads the waterfall. Gveleti means “place of snakes” in Georgian, so keep an eye out for local wildlife!
Mount Kazbegi
Mount Kazbegi stands majestically over the region at an elevation of 5033 metres. Kazbegi is the third tallest mountain in Georgia, and is also one of the highest mountains in Europe.
Climbing Kazbegi is not difficult technically and mostly consists of glacial walking. The crux is a 100 metre easy ice climbing in the couloir below the summit no steeper than 40°. Perhaps the main issue here is altitude; climbers must appropriately acclimatise. For those with little experience, a guided expedition costs EUR600-700, excluding equipment rental.
Stepantsminda Historic Museum
Stepantsminda Historic Museum is located in the memorial house of the Georgian writer Alexander Kazbegi (1848-1890). Together with the library and personal belongings of the writer, the museum houses ethnographic artifacts typical of the Khevi region; archaeological exhibits; religious relics; books, and various works from local artists.
Adults: 3 GEL
Guided Tour: 25 GEL
Where To Eat
Awtobus
Awtobus is an old red bus converted into a cafe. This is the by a long way, the BEST coffee in Kazbegi. They also have nice snacks here.
CAFE 5047
Cafe 5047 overlooks the main square of Kazbegi. Most of the seating here is outside under sunshades and giving awesome views of the mountains. Due to its location the prices here are a little higher than elsewhere. The food here was decent.
Cosy Corner
Cosy Corner is located on the northern side of the Terek River (Gergeti side), right after the bridge.
The restaurant is constructed from timber and brick, with a high ceiling and funky lights hanging from ropes. It definitely fits the definition of cozy! They play pop music off YouTube on a projector in one corner. You can do karaoke here, though if you’re just coming to watch it may not be every night, it depends entirely on the guests. There is plenty outdoor seating which is nice both day and night. There’s a small brook that runs through the middle of the outdoor seating area which is quite special.
Cosy Corner is a very touristy restaurant, you’re quite unlikely to find any locals here. That said; the food is very good and the prices are quite reasonable. Having tried Khachapuri Acharuli in a number of restaurants in Kazbegi, this was our favourite!
Kazbegi Good Food
This place is quite special. If you’re looking for a fancy spancy restaurant, walk on! This is as local place as you’ll find in Kazbegi. The building has the charm of the past, painted to fit. Inside it’s cramped and dingy, outside there is plenty of seating. As those who are well travelled will know, plastic chair restaurants are not to be dismissed, this is the case with this restaurant. There food here is very good and the prices very reasonable!
Shorena’s
Shorena’s is located on the side of the main square, and hence very busy with tourists during the day. It’s a very cosy restaurant of timber construction with heavy timber tables and benches, having an almost German feel. The food here is ok, though prices are quite high and aimed at tourists. Their Khachapuri Acharuli was not the best.
Where To SLeep
For such a small town, Stepantsminda has an unproportionally high number of accommodation options (almost 200!). Locals have learned that catering to tourists can be a financially rewarding business.
HOW TO GET TO KAZBEGI
Didube Bus Station is the main transportation hub of Tbilisi. It’s a chaotic place at first, but you’ll soon learn how the place works. When you exit the Didube Metro station, you’ll find plenty of share taxi drivers waiting for you. If you’re after the marshrutkas, politely decline and walk on by.
Marshrutka
Marshrutkas leave regularly from Didube bus station in Tbilisi.
Fare: 10 lari (EUR3.20)
Duration: 2h45
Share Taxi
Share taxis depart from Didube Bus Station in Tbilisi. They usually make two tourist stops on route: the Ananuri Church/Fortress Complex and the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument (both of which are free).
Fare: 15-25 lari (EUR4.80-8)
Duration: 2h45
